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Located near East 4th Street and Avenue B, the E.U. takes good food seriously, yet still has a casual flair for its atmosphere. The cavern-like dining area is decorated sparsely, but creatively, with neo-industrial lighting and artifacts; a miniscule bar at the back of the establishment speaks to the recent acquisition of their liquor license.


I began at the bar with a glass of an Italian Primitivo red wine, and a complimentary dish of smoked sausages and Dusseldorf mustard. When my friend arrived, we asked the bartender about the "flight" of artisinal beers, which turned out to be the five they had on tap - ranging from an apple lambic to belgian ales to pilsner to Guinness. We both ordered the flight and were then seated by extremely friendly staff.

I ask you: what's the sign of a good server? Someone who, after getting a casual "please choose the cheeses you think would go with these beers", comes back to the table twice to discuss her potential choices. We ended up with a buttery goat, a tangy sheep, and a mildly sharp cow, as well as a small beet salad with additional goat cheese. Their cheese plate comes with small toast, acacia honey, and candied nuts - all excellent.

For dinner, my friend ordered the Brauenwurst on handmade pretzel bun with kraut, and I got the pork loin and apples with rosemary beef shank and shard, mixed in with a savory brown sauce and some mustard seeds. My plate was a symphony of flavors, though the portion size was distinctively small (i.e. European) but no less satisfying in taste. Sylvia's sausage was delectable, much like the Hummel hot dogs from New Haven that I always rave about; a bright, meaty bite, with a satisfying snap and texture, and a gorgeous orange/red color indicating perfect preparation. We both enjoyed the apple lambic, and got full glasses to go with our meals.

And then - dessert! Sylvia chose the Rocher, which was a layered confection more like a cake than a chocolate: ganache and a fudgy center on top of a meringue with halved hazelnuts sprinkled all around, atop a chocolate sauce, with a scoop of chocolate gelato a la mode. It was a dark and smoky slice of love, and I had to remark to her that the presentation resembled a busload of nuns in a terrible road accident (if the cake was a bus, and the sauce was an oil slick, and the nuts were nuns strewn all about... you have to see it to know what I'm saying). My dessert was a simple cookie-sized wedge of Huckelberry tart with vanilla gelato. It was small, but the gingery cookie crumble and powerful berry flavor were terrific. We both had lovely espressos to go with, but I'm sure her dessert was perfectly complemented by her coffee.

The bill was a little steep - about $60 a person, but it was a full three course meal with drinks at each course, so in reality it was pretty much an average price for such quality of food and preparation. Unfortunately the menu is not vegetarian friendly at all, but there are some fishy choices for those of pescetarian persuasion. Also, the server did indicate that changes are made to the menu every day, so don't necessarily expect anything I mentioned to be there when you go yourself.

Next time I go, I'm totally getting the charcuterie plate of cured meats. Mmmm meat!
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mik3cap

June 2010

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